[Greece Fam Trip 3] What to Do in Rhodes Old Town: Cobblestones, Crusaders, and the Best Greek Salad Ever
What to Do in Rhodes Old Town
A story of ancient stones, medieval walls, and the best Greek salad I’ve ever had.
Our journey to Rhodes began like many European adventures—through winding stone alleys and the familiar chaos of dragging suitcases over ancient cobblestones. But Rhodes? Rhodes has its own kind of cobblestones. Sharp, pebbled, and slightly raised, they’re beautiful to look at—and challenging to roll across. My suitcase clattered noisily behind me, as if declaring, “Yes, I’m a tourist.”
We were staying inside the walled Old Town of Rhodes, so no cars were allowed. That meant we had to walk in—lugging bags, navigating twisting alleys with barely legible signs. Google Maps and YouTube walk-throughs didn’t prepare us for how maze-like it would feel on day one. But soon, we found our rhythm.
💡 Tip: If you’re staying inside the Old Town, be prepared to walk your luggage from the outer gate. Save an offline map and know your hotel’s entrance in advance!
Our Little Hotel in a Medieval Lane
Our guesthouse sat on one of those picturesque, shadowy lanes you only find in Europe—where every doorway looks like it holds a secret.
The building was old, stone-walled and modest in size, but renovated inside with clean rooms and simple comforts. No staff, no reception desk—just a lock (someone came and gave a key when we called them) and a staircase that led to five guest rooms.
It wasn’t luxury.
But every time I opened that heavy wooden door with its wrought-iron handle, it felt like I was walking into history. And that, to me, was priceless.
A City Layered in Time
The Old Town of Rhodes is more than a tourist destination—it’s a living museum.
Surrounded by massive stone walls and narrow alleyways, it has seen millennia of conquest, power shifts, and cultural exchanges. From the Minoans and Dorians, to Persians and Alexander the Great. Later, the Byzantine Empire, Ottoman rule, and even ties to Egypt.
And then came the Crusaders.
This walled city became a military base for knights from across Europe, and the massive medieval fortress still standing today is a testament to that chapter of history.
We learned 7 million tourists are visiting Rhodes every year. It was unbelievable numbers considering how far the Rhodes from Athens (Greece mainland). A taxi driver said many Europeans are coming especially from UK and Germany. The rich and diverse history of Rhodes certainly attracts lots of Europeans.
Even the coffee reflects the region’s blend of cultures:
Turkish coffee or Greek coffee?
It’s the same thing—just don’t tell either side that.
Wandering the Old Town
We wandered for hours—some paths quiet and shadowed, others lively and lined with souvenir stalls, cafés, and tavernas. Ruins peeked out from ivy-covered walls, and ancient stone archways gave way to modern-day gelato shops.
It was a collision of centuries in the best way possible.
Everywhere you turned, there were little pockets of charm:
Tucked away in the old stone alleys of Rhodes, this little workshop glows with handmade copper treasures and vintage metalware — a timeless charm of Greek craftsmanship
- A candlelit restaurant in a crumbling courtyard
- A local artisan selling olive oil soap
- A rooftop bar tucked above the ramparts
The Best Greek Salad (Yes, Really)
Let’s talk about food.
Our first evening, we walked toward the fortress and found a place called Mama Sophia’s. At first glance, it looked like a typical Greek taverna—but it became unforgettable.
We ordered grilled octopus, warm crusty bread, fire-oven pizza, grilled scallops, and of course… Greek salad. Simple, right?
But this was the Greek salad.
Fresh tomatoes that actually tasted like tomatoes.
Creamy feta that crumbled just enough.
And the olive oil—oh, the olive oil!
It had a peppery, earthy flavor I can still taste if I close my eyes. Afterwards, we went to numerous restaurants in other parts of Greece such as Crete, Santorini, Naxos next 2.5 weeks, and ordered Greek salad all the time. But interestingly, the Mama Sophia’s Greek salad was the best. I guessed that is because of their olive oil. I learned later every family makes their own olive oil. So oil tastes different everywhere. If I visit Mama Sophia again, I would buy many bottles of their olive oils.
We returned the next morning for brunch. It was that good.
🫒 Note to self: Next time, bring a suitcase just for olive oil.
Rhodes, In a Word? Unexpected.
We came for sun and history, but found something even better:
A city that lives and breathes through its textures—its stones, its flavors, its layered past.
Rhodes Old Town reminded me why I travel.
Not just for the sights, but for those little moments:
Getting lost down a medieval alley.
Finding a meal that stays with you.
Realizing that sometimes, the past is closer than we think.